Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
