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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.